Tools and materials
Laser level (or water level), tape measure, chalk line, tin snips (aviation snips), drill/driver, screw eyes or lag screws, 12-gauge hanger wire, pliers, utility knife, ladder, plus the grid parts and tiles from our calculator.
Step by step
- Check the space. You need about 3-4 inches below the lowest obstruction for the grid and to tilt tiles in (more if you’ll add recessed lights).
- Plan the layout on paper. Center the grid so the border tiles on opposite walls are equal and at least half a tile wide.
- Mark a level line around the room at ceiling height.
- Install the wall angle along the line, screwing into studs about every 16-24 inches. Overlap or miter corners.
- Run strings across the room where each main tee will go: every 4 feet, perpendicular to the joists.
- Install hanger wires every 4 feet along each main tee line, screwed into joists, with a 90° bend at the height of the string.
- Hang the main tees, cutting the first piece so a cross-tee slot lines up with your layout; thread wires through the holes and twist.
- Add 4′ cross tees between mains every 2 feet; for 2x2 layouts add 2′ cross tees.
- Check level and square before adding tiles.
- Drop in full tiles, then cut and install border tiles.
Mistakes to avoid
- Skipping the layout: tiny slivers of tile at the walls look bad.
- Hanging mains parallel to joists (you’ll have nowhere to attach wires).
- Leaving too little space above the grid to tilt tiles in.
- Cutting into old ceiling tiles that might contain asbestos: test first.
